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The mainboard...
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Experimental building ...
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Crop and assemble the side panels and mark out of the casing bottom.
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Then the casing bottom is cut out with a table saw or circular saw.
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Screw the casing bottom on the side panels.
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The rear side panel cut into two parts. The gap must be correspond to the inner edge of the motherboard blend.
Lay the mainboard in the chassis to fit in the right rear corner. Mark out and pre-drill the holes for the mother- board spacers.
Remove the mainboard and turn the spacers into the holes.
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Attached mainboard with rear blend.
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Mark out the breakthrough for C14 chassis socket and cut out from the lower right rear side panel.
Mark out and cut out the rear blend section at the upper rear side panel. The remaining side panels
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(2nd floor) will be mounted.
The IEC-cord-Y-Adapter (2 plugs soldering on one socket) and the
SFX power supply and the TFT power supply are get connected and trial fitted in the housing.
SSD hard disk easly fitted with insulation tape on the SFX power supply. (no problem the SSD can not vibrate)
Figure out the cable channels.
The cover frame is made from an MDF angle- bar. (chopsaw 45 degree, similar to picture frame)
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The source of the IEC socket ...
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Probe mounting the TFT panel. Screw the attachment plates (plywood rests) to the tops of the side panels.
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Drill two holes for the VGA and USB cable at the bottom of the upper rear side panel, above the mainboard blend.
Mount the TFT panel and connect the onboard VGA output to VGA cable.
Mount the cover frame and try out whether everything is correct.
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Screw the USB controller board for the 4-wire touch panel on the front upper side panel.
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Initial startup of the MTP-PC and install the operating system.
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Mounting the touch panel on the TFT panel and connect the USB controller to a rear mainboard USB port.
At the edges, I just attached the touch panel on the TFT panel with insulation tape. (Works fine)
Then install all necessary drivers and soft- ware.
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With the help of the casing fan, the interior temperature permanently kept at 40 de- grees.
Due to the fan control, the noise level does not rise significantly.
Finally, the au- dio interface, a Swissonic TS22, gets installed.
In the rear upper side panel on the left side, a cutout for the connection of the cable and the two jack outputs (L / R) had to cut.
After mounting the Swissonic, that cutout was then sealed through thin plywood plates. These were later painted black.
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The 4-wire-to-USB cont- roller.. (in delivery of the touch panel included)
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Rear (rear-side panels) of the housing. To see the (bad made) Swissonic cutout for the sound card.
Also a ventilation panel is to be seen.
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again from the front of ...
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Rear: the quite successful bad holes (holes we can no longer speak) for VGA and USB cable.
Distance from the CPU fan on the back of the TFT panel mounting 15mm approx.
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Initial tests with the still unpublished SuperDrumFX v1.4.
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Now the DIY MTP-PC nicely done.
For the ground and the side panels, I use black decorative film with artificial grain.
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Now the side panels...
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Front side...
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Rear...
The inner edges of the cutouts I have previously painted black.
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Now the cover frame embellished. I have used artificially grained maple decorative film.
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Already look like it looks ...
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For the control elements of the TFT panel, as well as for the power button of the PC, I use self-made
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push-buttons. The solution is simple and totally reliable.
Previously, I drilled holes in the cover, above the push buttons.
Small black foam adhesive pads to which I chopped self adhesive felt pieces have this problem solved.
The foam adhesive pads will be glued centered with the felt pieces to the bottom, to fit into the hole.
You will now have a clear en-pressure point. Due to the elasticity of foam adhesive pads and felt pieces,
the weak pressure of the push button is enough to reset the button after pressing, back into the starting position.
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